Trek:
Pahalgam To Amarnath Cave
Via Mahagunas Pass
Main Trek Base:
Altitude: 4,175m (13,700ft).
Alternative Trek: Sonamarg To Amarnath
During
the yatra, stages of the walk are carefully controlled by the
Indian authorities. The first stage of the trek is to
Chandanwadi, the second to Sheshnag and the third over the
Mahagunas Pass to Panchtami. Many pilgrims visit the cave from
Panchtami and return to Sheshnag the same day, walking back to
Pahalgam on the fifth day.
Day 1:
Pahalgam To
Chandanwadi
(Average walking time 4 hours)
The trail leaves Pahalgam on a bitumen road, past the Shankar
temple and along the east Liddar valley. The trail is easy to
follow indeed it is suitable for jeeps as far as Chandanwadi
(2,900m). There are many obvious short cuts on the route, and a
number of tea stalls, as this first Day always seems to be quite
hot. The campsite is in a pleasant glade just before the main
line of tea stalls.
Day 2: Chandanwadi To Sheshnag
(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)
From Chandanwadi the trail winds steeply for 500m to the summit
of ridge known as Pisu Top (3,390m). From here, there are
commanding views back down the valley to the mountains beyond
Pahalgam. During the main pilgrimage, the tea stall owners do a
thriving business, which keeps the pilgrims going on the long
incline to the next main resting area at Wawajana (3,550m). From
here it is two to three km further to Sheshnag (3,720m). The
glacial lake is set in remarkable surroundings, its waters
reflecting the snow capped peaks of Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma.
Rumour among pilgrims has it that the lake is inhabited by a
serpent of Loch Ness monster proportions, so it's advisable not
to camp too close to the water's edge.
Day 3: Sheshnag To Panchtarni
(Average walking time 6 hours)
The trail gradually ascends from Sheshnag with magnificent views
of the mountains immediately above. The ascent towards the
Mahagunas Pass winds up to a grassy plateau, and from there on
to the pass it is a further hour's climb. The sign at the top of
the pass states the height as 4,270m. It is not a dramatic pass,
but it is still no mean achievement for the pilgrims, many of
whom have never been beyond the Indian plains before.
The descent to Panchtarni (3,450m) is quite long and tiring, but
there are frequent flowered meadows to rest in and admire. The
campsite can be seen from afar; and behind, on a further ridge,
the bare, treeless mountainscape resembles the terrain on the
far side of the Himalayas. There are more spacious campsites
upstream from the main camping area, and these are also a little
cleaner.
Day 4: Panchtarni To Amarnath Cave &
Return
(Average walking time 5 hours return)
The
actual time to the cave will depend on whether one's trek
coincides with the main pilgrimage. During the pilgrimage an
early start is essential, with many of the pilgrims move more
steadily and slowly than on the rest of the trek, as if in awe
of their surroundings.
The climb to the Singh Pass (3,850m) is gradual before the trail
enters the Amarnath valley. It descends to a permanently
blackened snow bridge, which fords the Amarvati stream before
ascending the true right back to the base of the mountain. From
here the final ascent is up a series of concrete steps to the
entrance to the Amarnath Cave (4,050m). The J&K police manning
the entrance to the cave only permit a limited number of
pilgrims inside at any one time.
Day 5: Panchtarni To Chandanwadi
(Average walking time 8 hours)
Many pilgrims return from Panchtarni to Chandanwadi in one day.
After completing their pilgrimage to the cave most are happy to
trek as far as they can the following Day.
Day 6: Chandanwadi To Pahalgam
(Average walking time 4 hours)
On the final Day most pilgrims arrive back in the Pahalgam
bazaar with enough time to complete the drive to Srinagar or
Jammu the same day.
ALTERNATE TREK: -
SONAMARG AMARNATH
Although the traditional yatra trek to the Amarnath cave is from
Pahalgam one can also go there from Sonamarg.
Day 1: Sonamarg-Baltal
This 15-km trek takes about five hours and it's an easy walk
since there is little altitude change between Sonamarag and
Baltal. One should be able to get a lift on a truck to the
roadblock, from there on it is better to walk. The roadblock is
closed until noon or later, waiting for traffic to come across
the Zoji la from Ladakh. From the roadblock one can walk along
the river valley track, which is very pleasant. The river valley
track is also 2 to 3-km shorter than the vehicle road. A
military camp is the first sign of Baltal, which can be reached
in a day from Srinagar.
Day 2: Baltal-Amarnath
The 15-km trek to Amarnath climbs over a thousand metres from
Baltal at 2,743 metres to the cave at 4,175 metres and the walk
takes about nine to 10 hours. The route crosses one major snow
bridge over a river and climbs steadily up, crossing the Satsing
pass, 3 ½-km before Amarnath, at 4,115 metres dropping down and
then climbing up again to the cave at 4,175 metres. There are
some tea stalls along the way, even at the river, and after the
junction with the main trail there are even more.
From Amarnath one can follow the traditional yatra trail down to
Pahalgam.
Option:
Amarnath to Baltal & Sonamarg from the Amarnath cave return
along the pilgrim trail as far as the junction of the Panchtarni
and Amarvati rivers. Here the trails divert, with the track to
Baltal heading down the true right of the valley. The trail is
prone to rock avalanches where it traverses large scree slopes
and one should be wary of descending without first checking its
condition. If there are no problems, the trek to Baltal can be
completed in about four hours.
GETTING
AWAY
Road: From Baltal there is a regular
bus service during the pilgrimage period, getting back to
Srinagar that night. At other times, camp at Baltal and continue
to Sonamarg at a more leisurely pace the following morning. From
Sonamarg there are three buses a day to Srinagar and the drive
takes around five hours.
