For all its
seeming
inaccessibility, Ladakh's position at the centre of a network of
trade routes traditionally kept it in constant touch with the
outside world. From Chinese Central Asia, the mighty Karakoram range
was breached at the Karakoram pass, a giddy 18,350 feet (5,600m).
The trail from Yarkand crossed five other passes, of which the most
feared was the glacier, encumbered Saser-la, north of Nubra.
Travellers from Tibet could take one of two main routes. From the
central part of the country, the Tsang-po valley, they could pass
the holy sites of Kailash-Mansarovar and reach Fartok, on a
tributary of the upper Indus, from where they followed the river
down to Leh. Trade with the pashm producing areas of western Tibet
flowed by a more northerly route, taking in the village of Rudok, a
few miles into Tibet, and from there across the 18,300 feet (5,578m)
Chang-la to the Indus, and so to Leh. Baltistan, joined
administratively with Ladakh for 100 years, was linked to it either
via the Indus up to its confluence with the Suru-Shingo river, and
on up to Kargil; or by the Chorbat-la pass over the Ladakh range,
the trail dropping down to the Indus 40 km below Khalatse, and
following the river up to Leh.
The two main approaches to Ladakh from south of the Himalaya are
roughly the same as today's motor roads from Srinagar and Manali.
The merchants and pilgrims who made up the majority of travellers in
the pre-modern era, travelled on foot or horseback, taking about 16
days to reach Srinagar; though a man in hurry, riding non-stop and
with changes of horse arranged ahead of time all along the route,
could do it in as little as three days. The mails, carried in relays
by runners stationed every four miles or so, took four or five days.
That was before the wheel as a means of transport was introduced
into Ladakh, which happened only when the Srinagar- Leh motor-road
was constructed as recently as the early 1960's.