Leh has quite
a few interesting places on offer. You could start with the
captivating Leh Palace that rises from the edge of a hill
overlooking the town and stretches out towards the indigo sky.
Irrevocably reminiscent of a picture-postcard of Lhasa’s Potala
Palace, this deserted edifice has a definite mystical quality
about it.
The
Palace was built in the middle of the 16th century by King
Singe Namgyal and still belongs to the royal family that now lives in
the Stok Palace. The nine-storeyed monument has gone to seed, so don’t
visit the site expecting too much. You might not be able to get in at
all as the palace remains locked, unless of course you ask around and
find a monk who can open it for you. The Palace has a museum with some
tangkhas (painted or embroidered scrolls) and paintings amongst
other things. The view from the monastery is quite impressive. Roosted
above the Leh Palace is the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa (monastery). The
enigmatic stark structure stands on a steep hill looming over the
town. Built in 1430 by the Namgyal rulers, the red monastery has some
frescos, Buddhist scriptures, idols and a massive statue of the
Maitreya Buddha (future Buddha). The splendid view from the top
alone is well worth the effort. The striking Shanti Stupa is a recent
structure. A Japanese who harboured the ambition of spreading Buddhism
across the world, had it constructed in 1985 with aid from the
Japanese Government. The stupa is connected by a ‘motorable’ road and
a steep flight of stairs. Once on top, you can stop for a snack in the
tea shop, then relax and enjoy the panoramic view of the chain of
mountains and the peaceful little village of Changspa with typical
Ladakhi houses built along a gushing stream, and the towering Namgyal
Tsemo in the distance. There is a rudimentary Sauna Spa not far from
the Shanti Stupa in Changspa Village that offers a soft drink in the
sauna! The striking green and white Leh Mosque in the Main Bazaar is
also worth a visit. The mosque is open only to men. This is also a
good place to find out about the possibility of doing voluntary work
with various organizations. If interested, inquire at the reception
centre or simply check the information board. Leh offers some
delightful walks, especially around Changspa Village. Just take any of
the cobbled lanes in the village and feel free to carry on as you
please. It is impossible to get lost in this tiny village.
The lanes and
by-lanes curve around colourful Ladakhi houses with brightly-painted
windows overlooking little gardens blossoming with cosmos, poppies and
hollyhocks. The village is dotted with prayer wheels where you might
see some locals turning the symbolic wheel. A network of narrow canals
channel the river water to all parts of the village, so you can never
be far from the gurgling sound of flowing water and patches of wild
irises growing around the banks of the canal. Bunches of little
children with sunburnt rosy cheeks and sparkling eyes will greet you
all around the village with the all-encompassing greeting jule
(hello, bye, thank-you and please) that you must be all too familiar
with by now. In case you do feel a little lost or disorientated, just
ask any local and he will be happy to show you the way.
Leh Festivals
Losar
The
Buddhists of Ladakh celebrate Losar as their new year. Before the rule
of Jamiang Namgyal (1555-1610), this day was considered to be the
first day of the Ladakhi Buddhist year, which is based on the moon and
sun similar to that of the Hindus.
However, Losar was
advanced by two days as Jamiang Namgyal decided to invade Skardu
before the new year. Since then, Losar is celebrated on the last two
days of the lOth Bodhi month, which coincides with December of the
Christian calender.
Losar is
celebrated with traditional gaiety and fervor. The festivities include
illuminations, drinking, dancing, singing and general merry-making.
Men come out of their homes with torches of wood which are whirled
round and round. People visit each other's homes during these
celebrations, which continue for many days.
Tampe Chonga
The fifteenth day of the first Bodhi month is celebrated as a festival
marking Buddha's entry into the womb of his mother. Prayers are held
both at home and in the gompas.
Jipe Chonga
The fifteenth day of the fourth Bodhi month is the day when the Buddha
is believed to have taken physical birth. The people fast on the Jipe
Chonga day. Homes and gompas are illuminated and special prayers are
conducted.
Ladakh supports a
total population of about 1,40,000 according to the 1981 Indian census
figures. This region has one of the lowest population densities in the
world with a little over 2 persons per square kilometer.
A considerable
proportion of the population of Ladakh consists of Buddhists. They are
the main inhabitants of this region. The Buddhists may further be
divided into different sub communities depending on their culture and
sect.
Monasteries
Leh
Located
on the Leh-Srinagar highway, the Lamayuru Gompa dates back to the 10th
century and is known to be the oldest house of faith in Ladakh. The
monastery is also famous for being one of the most
picturesquely-located monasteries in Ladakh. It belongs to the Kagyupa
Order of Buddhism and is believed to have been wrecked and
reconstructed several times. The monastery is home to some of the
finest frescos, carpets and tangkhas (embroidered or painted
scrolls) you’ll see in the region. The prayer ceremonies in the gompa
should not be missed.
Amongst numerous
other monasteries that dot this rugged landscape, the Shey Gompa at a
distance of 15km from Leh was the former summer residence of the royal
family of Ladakh. The monastery has a 23m high gold-plated Shakyamuni
Buddha statue, known to be the largest one in Ladakh. The Spituk Gompa
is only 8km from Leh and overlooks the Leh airport while from the back
of the monastery one can look down on the winding Indus and a
sprawling green village topped with willows and poplars. The monastery
has some noteworthy statues of Buddha and a natural rock formation of
the Hindu goddess, Kali. Another monastery close to Leh is the Stok
Gompa built in 1814. In the year 1974, the last king of Ladakh passed
away in this monastery. The monastery faces the Stok Museum that has,
amongst other things, a collection of the royal family’s traditional
clothing and jewellery. The deserted 400 hundred year old Basgo Gompa
close to Nimu Village houses fine frescos and a gold-plated statue of
the Maitreya Buddha. The hilltop monastery offers a spectacular view
of the surrounding landscape. Further on, the majestic Likir Gompa
built in the 14th century is famed as the first monastery
built by Tibetan monks and is definitely worth a visit. Today, the
monastery follows the Gelukpa Order of Buddhism. The monastery is also
called Klu-khyil Gompa or the Monastery of the Spirits of Water.
